If you’re considering an Inside Waterproofing System you’ll Want to READ This Now!

The Following Information is Secret, Privileged, Confidential, Covert, Sub Rosa…in Other

Words…CLASSIFIED!

…But We’re Willing to Let You in on it!

Got a Wet Basement?

Want To Weed Out The Gimmicks and Understand the Outdated Basement Waterproofing Strategies Currently Offered Locally?

Local Best-Selling Author and National Basement Expert

Reveals All…

So…Which Is Better- Inside or Outside Waterproofing?

THESE WALLS ARE HOLDING THOUSANDS OF GALLONS OF WATER!

Concrete walls can store up to thousands of gallons of water before ever showing physical signs, such as this display of obvious physical seepage

So, which is better Outside or Inside?

This is a question that I have personally heard for the last 20 years.

Blank says the Outside is the only way to go.

So and So says doing the basement from the inside only brings water in.

Someone else tells you you’re wasting your money and tearing up your lawn, the inside is definitely the way to go!

Who is right?

No one… you see every basement problem is unique to that individual house.

There are multiple factors that determine which system is right for your home.

Generally, if removal of the water is the only problem you need corrected- the inside system can accomplish your objective for the least amount of money, and provide you with the most return on your investment.

If your problem is structural or if your foundation is extremely old the exterior method allows for a re-surfacing of the walls and acts as a foundation restoration rather than just a removal of moisture. If the walls pre-date concrete block construction, (brick, fieldstone, sandstone, terra cotta tile or solid concrete) they may be a prime candidate for the outside.

You CAN Make your Basement BONE DRY From the INSIDE For PENNIES!

Inside Waterproofing is the technique which, in my book, The Super Dry Basement, I call the sub-floor water re-directional system.

It can save you Thousands of Dollars!

However, the way it is installed by virtually every single other company in business -leaves a lot to be desired, and contains many fatal flaws.

I spent several years before starting my business while in college as a basement service Tech for one of the largest Big Name waterproofing companies for several years. I know exactly what doesn’t work because I have repaired literally thousands of already waterproofed basements.

I discovered that every basement system currently in use has multiple fatal flaws which create ongoing service issues. That’s why the big companies charge an annual fee. To allow them to pay for all of the service crews they have constantly re-repairing jobs long done!

When I started helping people on my own I vowed to fix each of the fatal flaws so you can solve your problem permanently!

No more service calls- no more headaches!

I did just that.

The inside system involves trenching around the interior of the basement wall and installing a drainage system around the perimeter of the inside of the basement under the floor.

The walls are then “tapped” into the newly dug trench under the floor (this is done by drilling a hole in every core of every block below the floor slab).

Many companies never explain that the system only works by completely draining the walls and any water under the slab during periods of extended rain or snow melt (when the water table rises).

This system will allow water to be “drained” from the inside of the walls by drilling weep holes into every core of every single block, (below floor level) which are then drained under the floor into a drain pipe and generally to a sump pump (or if I fix it by gravity) or pumped out.

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Other companies will often “explain” that an inside only system will never solve a water problem. They will claim that a combo inside-outside hybrid system is the way to go.

They say that the pipe under the floor takes all the ground water and that it is necessary to dig a shallow outside trench on the outside of the house.

They claim the outside trench will take away surface water. They never admit this outside trench is shallow and worthless unless there is a significant grade change

(ie your neighbor sits several feet higher and drains toward you).

They never even MENTION the drainage holes drilled into the core face of the bottom row of blocks in the basement, under the level of the floor slab. And folks, this is THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. It is also the step most often “screwed up” by other contractors.

You see there are two variables that must be dealt with in ensuring the effectiveness of the “weep holes”.

First, is that when the mason was laying the blocks different masons “slough off” different amounts of mortar into the bottom course which affects the level of the “bottom” inside the blocks themselves.

This means it is important to make sure that you are above the mortar bed and yet remain in the lowest part of the block.

Secondly, it is ESSENTIAL to make sure that your men are educated as to the history of the development of concrete blocks, as well as all of the different core patterns that have been incorporated into them over time.

You see, this work is done by YOUNG men.

In their short lifetime concrete blocks have only been made with Two cores. If they drill into the block where they imagine the core is today, in one of the many variations in block design that have occurred over the years, it is entirely possible, no probable that they are drilling into the web rather than the core or pocket of the block.

Only by drilling into every single core of every single block does it become possible to drain the entire wall and make the system work effectively.

Otherwise it is entirely possible to install the drain tiles perfectly and…

Still leave ALL of the water dammed up inside the walls,

wasting all that money and still leaving the problem UNSOLVED.

In fact many times I get called after the homeowners have spent thousands of dollars to “waterproof” their basement and even THOUSANDS MORE to turn it into finished space; Only to find mold growing on newly installed drywall. This happened to one of my customers named Bonnie Rembowski.

She had hired a big local company and they installed an inside system.

She then hired a second contractor to remodel her basement. They hung new dry wall and framed new walls. She had new carpeting installed and everything seemed perfect until ….

Bonnie kept getting sick.

She was treated for recurring bronchitis many times over a period of about six months. Finally one day Bonnie’s Doctor suggested to her that she have her house checked for mold.

Bonnie called me.

I began inspecting the basement and I immediately began to notice mold growing along the bottom several feet on all the newly dry-walled walls that had just been “waterproofed”.

I began inspecting the inside system and I discovered that:

Even though a permit was pulled …

Even though the drainage pipes were inspected and installed properly…

Even though there was no puddling or physical seepage…

The system was NOT WORKING!

The reason why became apparent after we broke open the floor and inspected the weep holes- JUST AS I SUSPECTED. The walls were not draining do to improper weep hole placement. Poor Bonnie,

WE HAD TO COMPLETELY GUT THE BRAND NEW BASEMENT …

and disinfect everything to stop the mold and help her STOP GETTING SICK.

She contacted the waterproofing company who did the job WRONG.

(We won’t name any names … let’s just say it was ONE OF THE BIG THREE!)

They told her there was nothing they could do under the warranty since technically the basement hadn’t leaked (it was just DONE WRONG in the first place).

Poor Bonnie then had to hire us to fix the basement problem TOO! Unfortunately, this is not the first time this has happened to me and sadly I’m afraid it WON’T be the last.

Our inside system when installed properly, however, is ideal for situations where water is coming up from under the slab itself; in fact it is the only solution for under-slab water issues.

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No matter which contractor you call, the same basic “inside system” is used.

There are however many problems with this system as it is employed by our so called “competition”. The companies using them of course claim that their systems are unique, but…

We fixed the system…

The GOOD NEWS however is that we have modified the inside system to eliminate all of the potential problems and WE EDUCATE OUR WORKERS as to the history of concrete blocks.

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This education guarantees that this kind of a problem won’t happen to you. We also INSIST on installing CLEAN OUTS which are access points set in the floor. These clean outs means that down the road you can maintain your system and “flush it out” every few years with a garden hose. Ensuring that it remains functional and trouble free!

It also means, heaven forbid, if you have a problem with the drainage pipes clogging, that you WONT have to JACKHAMMER your floor.

--you can have them snaked or jetted clean!

Contrary to what you might have been told PROPERLY INSTALLED inside drainage systems can be the BEST solution when figuring all factors especially the Return On Investment.

The Return On Investment is how much value – dollar for dollar you will see from your investment at re-sale. Or, to put it another way, what value you get for the dollars you spend. In other words if a dry basement is the goal and it can be made dry from the inside for 5K and from the outside for 10k there is no return on the extra 5k you spend to fix it from the outside! That money may be better spent on a new cruise, or your kids education, a new car etc.

A PROPERLY INSTALLED Super Dry™ inside system is also the preferred method for keeping concrete block walls from disintegrating, due to the fact that it allows for water drainage and keeps soil acid buildup to a minimum.

Other inside systems also fail to allow for a phenomenon called vapor migration.

Vapor migration has to do with moisture moving through the air from areas of greater concentration to lesser.

With a properly functioning inside system the walls are drained from the inside, however the webbing is still in contact with the earth.

This means that when it is raining the walls will absorb a certain amount of moisture through the webs. This moisture is then passed through the walls and directly into the basement with an average inside system.

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Our Water-lock Super Shield Double Vapor Barrier System Stops Vapor Migration in its Tracks!

For this reason, each and every Super Dry inside system includes our floor to ceiling Water-lock Super Shield Double vapor barrier system! This is a dual membrane vapor Barrier system that consists of a thick 6 mil plastic sheeting and anti-fungal 60 mil Super Shield panels. These panels lock the moisture out of your basement and guarantee a BONE DRY BASEMENT! The other guys who fail to use this system leave the basement with a clammy dank wet musty feel to them during rainy weather which is ideal for mold growth.

The Super Shield Panel System is Like a Free basement Makeover!

With Super Shield paneling on your walls they will never need paint again! That’s right these clean PVC panels are colorfast don’t fade and will brighten even the darkest dungeon! Making the walls gleam like the Taj Mahal

(Ok I know that’s a little extreme )

If the super shield system is not fancy enough for you it is an IDEAL vapor barrier for use with a finished or sheetrock wall system. You can now feel confident and assured that your basement will remain dry and can be re-modeled any way you like it!

Remember you house is your biggest investment- when you need basement help, call about a Super Dry Basement™ and:

Get more for your money!

You’ll get immediate service turnaround - most inspections performed in 24-48 Hours.

You’ll get the best basement waterproofing in the Midwest serving Ohio, Michigan, Western Pennsylvania and Northern Kentucky.

You’ll get the best trained inspectors in the industry!

You’ll get the most knowledgeable structural repair experts!

You’ll get immediate installation when you need it in a crunch to close a deal.

You’ll get the best guarantees in the industry!

Call Now 800-948-4847 To schedule an inspection