SUPER DRY BASEMENTSTM
(We Wrote The Book On Basement Waterproofing)
If you are considering Exterior
Owe it to Yourself to:
Don’t Pay to Fix Your Basement Twice Like
Many, Many of our Past Customers Who Hired Substandard Contractors
(Some of them Large Companies With Fancy Marketing and Slick
In Order to Help You Wade Through All The B.S.
(That’s Baloney Stuff, Folks!) in Your Estimates and Understand
This Kind of Project:
I Will Explain to You Why Most Companies Who Call
Themselves Basement Waterproofers Aren’t Actually
I Will Explain The Systems Commonly Employed Nationally Especially
What is WRONG
will Explain How We Fixed Their Problems;
We DO Differently
Finally, Why You
Need Our Superior services.
what is commonly described as basement waterproofing is to actually
excavate the foundation, meaning the foundation is dug up. In other
words it means: to remove all the dirt for a couple of feet all the
way around the house all the way down to the bottom of the footing.
is generally referred to as waterproofing ( but I can assure you that
the way its done nationally typically,
IT ISN’T). Most of
the guys that do this are small 1-8 men outfits. They learned to do
what they do, from someone who learned it from someone etc.
basement is built what the code minimums require is damp proofing.
Damp proofing is to trowel a mortar parge coat on the wall which is
basically trowelling mortar on the wall like stucco; then applying a
damproof tar or asphalt sealant.
basic technique has been used for the last 100 years.
imagine all of the advances that have been made in the last hundred
years yet builders still seal the wall using this archaic process!
is Guaranteed to fail
every time; in fact in
Cleveland, Ohio alone there are over 125 water-proofing companies in
the yellow pages !!!
these “so-called water-proofers” do is dig up the
basement and actually RE-APPLY
the EXACT SAME
SEALANTS and utilize the
exact same techniques that
in the first place!
that make any sense whatsoever???
usually means re-parging the wall with porous mortar and smearing
some tar on it like a monkey!
you ever known anyone that had an asphalt driveway?
often did they Have-To
Re- Seal it?
tell you I have, known many people with black top drives. When I was
a kid growing up two of my neighbors had an ongoing debate about
first neighbor swore you needed
to seal it every single year,
and he did.
second neighbor swore every
two years was enough.
can still hear them arguing now in my mind’s eye…
sad truth is that according to the US Bureau of Standards asphalt
sealants begin to break down in only 18
the sad truth is they were both right!
these so called water-proofers charge an average of ten to fifteen
grand just to dig up the basement and seal it again using what FAILED
See Tar Has Never
Rated as Waterproof
I discovered this, it sent my head spinning!
the reason why was, that every single “waterproofer” I
knew used tar (asphalt based sealants)!!
couldn’t ALL be wrong….
Or could they?????
you know that in the building codes there are actually two separate
definitions for damp-proofing (tar)
proofing: by definition
means “something that helps to slow the penetration of water
into the substrate”.
“helps to slow”
sounds quite different
than the definition of:
the penetration of water” and
further must pass a bending test where the membrane must be able to
be bent around a cylinder.
proof sealants are almost all exclusively used and installed
because they are more expensive).
extra costs are what stop the average contractor from offering you ,
the homeowner, a product that is effective and will last and “stand
the test of time”.
have developed a true SUPER
DRY™ MULTI-STEP EXTERIOR WATERPROOFING SYSTEM which,
uses a cement-based fiber re-enforced wall resurfacing system and NO
LESS than two
is by no means the cheapest of methods, however, and it
may or may not be the BEST
system to put into place. Which system you should use depends
entirely on the specific nature of YOUR problem. There are NO
miracle systems than can solve ALL basement problems.
thing I can guarantee is if our outside waterproof system is
installed it will actively drain water away from the foundation, and
the water leak will be a thing of the past,
not only that, but our sealants will outlast
the wood on your house
like to tell you a story you’ve got to hear about a job I
recently did for a Mr. Ron Sewyak on state route 20 in Oberlin.
a sad story about a man who had to have his basement fixed THREE
TIMES in ten short years!!!!!
Mr Sewyak had had the walls of
his home rebuilt ten years ago using conventional masonry techniques.
They were rebuilt using 12" blocks and type n mortar. A
conventional parge coat was applied and tar. New tiles and backfill
were added. This is what is considered “outside
Four years later the walls were
Exasperated the homeowner had Ohio State
Waterproofing install their inside outside "waterproofing
system" (inside) and they hoped their problems were over.
thought his problem was solved!
I met Ron a few months ago.
He asked me to come out to his
house because his basement walls were severely bowed bulging and
shifted off the first course and out of plumb.
I was able to
observe portions of the outside "waterproofing " system
from ten years ago and the inside/outside system from six years ago
both had fatal flaws but…. Neither system was the cause of the
After careful inspection I assessed the real
That’s right, it turned out
that the first contractor (who did many things poorly) built the
walls directly back up to and underneath the existing framing
deficiency which caused the
wall system to fail in the first place.
A partial sill plate
and a lack of cribbing on the gable end walls were behind their
basements problems from the beginning.
After the first winter
ten years ago, the newly re-built wall began to crack... this opened
water ways which made the walls leak.
Ron's second contractor
performed an inside system which, while done poorly, also stopped
active water puddles on the floor.
Unfortunately it did
nothing to stop the structural issues, which worsened and worsened,
until he was forced to call me.
So in a ten year period the
walls have been repaired three times!!!!
Fortunately, for Ron I fixed them once and for all
by first correcting the framing issues and repairing the sill plate;
then performing a complete excavation.
Only once the earth was
removed completely; all the way down to the bottom of the footer, was
I able to push the walls back in line and use my surface bonding
structural repair solution.
Then of course I applied three
sealants to the wall one damp-proof two of them waterproof.
I replaced the drainage system with new thick wall pipe and stone all
the way to 12" of grade separated from the top soil with filter
So why didn't I fix them from the
Because in his situation, it would not work; it was
not the source of the problem.
I always tell my customers all
of their options .
I tell them what I would do if I was in their shoes.
of your suppositions, not all homeowners can afford an outside
system.... worse... most outside contractors do not know how to
install a true WATER-PROOFING system.
So the poor homeowner is
left buying a repair that involves excavating the wall and using the
same techniques that FAILED ALREADY!!!
are considering outside excavation and water-proofing you need to
learn what makes our system the BEST and why you would never ever
want any other technique to be attempted.
re-cap the typical outside waterproofing contractor first excavates
the wall then applies a basic mortar parge. Mortar is very porous,
it soaks up water like a sponge.
the old timers will apply a Portland cement and ironite coating. This
is Portland cement mixed with powdered iron ore filings. The idea is
that as the iron ore filings oxidize they will expand helping to stop
the absorption; while this is less porous than a plain mortar parge
the fact it still soaks up water like a sponge.
newer cement base coating is called thoro-seal it is a capillary
blocked cement coating. While it is much better than an old fashioned
not however comparable to the first step in our Super Dry Multi- Step
are several reasons for this; namely that ordinary mortar parges rely
on a porosity bond to adhere to the wall. This means it is a physical
bond that is locked only into the nooks and crannies of the block
first coating that we apply to the wall is a waterproofed
below grade surface bonding cement. The
product was originally
developed to glue blocks together from the surface that had
absolutely no mortar in between them.
used as a parge coat we mix it with an acrylic bonding adhesive, this
gives it both porosity adhesion as well as a superior chemical
adhesion to the wall; which really means once we put it on it is
there to stay!
only is it non-porous like thoro-seal it also is capable of holding a
four foot head of water with out block penetration! That’s
is it more waterproof and chemically bonded to the wall it is
reinforced with thousands and thousands of tiny cat hair length nylon
fibers which make it incredibly tuff and strong!!! The manufacturer
claims it is the only sealant required to keep the basement dry; why
do we apply two more coatings???? Well the simple answer is concrete
based sealants have a fatal flaw namely expansion and contraction of
the soil. You see concrete can always develop hairline cracks, which
is the reason we go over it twice!
remember the story in the Bible when the Israelites were in captivity
in Egypt?? They were forced to mixed straw fibers into the mud for
making bricks…. You see the basic concept of introducing a
fiber matrix into a masonry product to increase strength is very,
step that is done by most outside contractors is to spray or brush an
asphalt (tar) based seal on the wall…. Just like the story
from above about the two driveways, tar is not and never will be,
waterproof!!! There are a few polymer modified tars that last
slightly longer than basic tar but most are not rated for more than
60 months before they get hard set and crack!!!!
only 5 years!!! Crazy!!! They can be marketed under names like
Tuff-n-Dri and others but they are still inferior sealants.
guys then will cover the tar with either plastic sheeting or foam
sheeting is a big booby trap that will separate from the tar as it
hardens and then can trap water in between the wall and the plastic
creating a worse problem than before the so called repair!!! The foam
board will help to keep the tar from being scratched as it is being
back-filled but is not waterproof and can often attract fungal
growth between the foam and tar breaking the tar down even faster !!!
next coating in the Super
Dry Multi-Step System is to
apply either a vulcanized rubber or a flashing grade elasto-meric
acrylic latex resin. Both are derived from latex rubber and truly
deserve the moniker of Water Proof! Both were developed as an
improvement to tar based flat roofing applications where the tar
final coating we use was developed for underground parking garages
and military bases, originally in Germany. A Canadian inventor then
improved the technology and ironed out the rest of the bugs with the
system so it would work permanently on regular houses. It is called
an air-gap drainage membrane/ blanket system. It is the best membrane
system ever developed in the authors opinion. There a many reasons
why, but here are a few: it is made of polyethylene plastic which is
terrible in our landfills because it does not break down but awesome
as a waterproofing blanket as it will outlast the wood on your house
guaranteed. It has no natural enemies other than sunlight and it is
buried so it will never see the sun. It traps an air gap or blanket
of air between the wall and the back fill dirt. It does this because
of the thousands of dimples impressed into the membrane when it is
being made. Even if the membrane is punctured it will not allow water
penetration because unless the water is pressurized
jump across an air gap.
the wall is sealed the other aspects of our system are also superior
to our so-called competitors… including: We never use thin
wall pipe only the thicker walled rigid pipes- this is so we never
need to worry about chunks in the backfill crushing the pipes .
always leave a geo-textile fabric under the pipes before the bed of
stone being used to pitch the pipes, this prevents mud from clogging
them and silt from migrating into them from underneath.
fill the wall all the way to within a few feet of grade with clean
stone--- this is to prevent the extra pressure from wet soil from
being added to the wall itself!
stacks on itself and drains, soil absorbs water weight!!
separate the soil we back fill over the stone from the stone using
the afore-mentioned geo-textile. This keeps the air gaps in the stone
intact and prevents the soils from rinsing down into the stone bed
and filling/clogging the drainage pipes!
always replace the downspout lines bedded in stone and never ever
fill soil under new driveways or concrete patio pads instead we use
layers of compacted premium fill in these areas, to prevent
can now feel confident and get the assurance that your basement will
remain dry and can be re-modeled any way you like it!
you house is your biggest investment-
when you need basement help, call about a Super Dry Basement™
more for your money!
get immediate service turnaround - most inspections performed in
You’ll get the best basement
waterproofing in the Midwest serving Ohio, Michigan, Western
Pennsylvania and Northern Kentucky.
get the best trained inspectors in the industry!
get the most knowledgeable structural repair experts!
get immediate installation when you need it in a crunch to close a
get the best guarantees in the industry!
800-948-4947 To schedule an inspection!!!!